Exploring Paris with a pug in a bag and a body that had other plans.
Big Plans and a Small Pug
Traveling to Paris with our pug, Bailey, sounded adorable when I first said it out loud. I pictured us strolling along the Seine, seeing the sights, stopping for coffee at little cafés, and I immediately bought her a beret. I didn’t picture sprinting through train stations, trying not to cry on public transit, or realizing halfway through the trip that my body had other plans. A less-than-ideal start to our three-month trip in Europe.
The beautiful streets of Paris.
We left Montreal on Christmas Day after celebrating early with our families. We each packed one suitcase, carried one personal item, and brought one pet. Matt carried the cat, who made it very clear she didn’t approve of this lifestyle. I carried Bailey in her pet backpack carrier, tucked in with her blanket and a pee pad just in case. We had practiced with her at home, letting her sit in the carrier and taking her out locally in it so she could get used to it. She ended up loving it and would jump right in whenever we took it out.
Feeding Bailey while waiting to board the plane.
Travel Tip: You cannot pass through security with cat litter, ours was confiscated. The amount allowed when traveling with a cat is about the size of a Coke can. Bring a small travel litter box and be prepared to make do with a limited amount.
Preparing paperwork to travel with pets was another story. More on that in another post.
Paris was supposed to be the “vacation style” beginning of the trip before settling into work and routine in Palermo, Sicily. I had big plans and a colorful itinerary for four days in Paris.
I thought we would hit the ground running. Instead, we just hit the ground.
A Not So Graceful Landing
The overnight flight from Montreal to Paris was technically smooth, but I barely slept. You know that kind of tired where your eyes burn and your brain feels like pudding. That was me, standing in Charles de Gaulle Airport with a pug in a bag and a brain made of fog.
Bailey in her backpack carrier.
We stumbled through security and baggage claim, found the train into the city, then transferred to the Metro. The air in the station was damp and a little stale. The cat meowed once in protest and then went silent. Bailey blinked up at me from her carrier, calm and curious, as if she had done this a hundred times.
Travel Tip: The “pet relief stations” at Charles de Gaulle are just linoleum floors. No fake grass, no patch, nothing soft. Bailey looked at it like, absolutely not! So we were stressing to get outdoors so she can do her business. If your pet is picky, consider using a pet diaper until you can get outside.
Notre-Dame Cathedral of Paris
Matt, thankfully, was in full logistical mode, reading maps and counting stops while I focused on keeping Bailey comfortable. We climbed the stairs out of metro station Saint‑Michel with our luggage and pets, and suddenly we were on a Parisian street.
I was grumpy and tired, but Paris slapped me in the face. The classic buildings with their white stone and grey metal roofs, the cafés spilling onto sidewalks, the Seine right there. I turned my head and there it was. Notre Dame. Just there. No build up. No warning. One second I was underground, the next I was staring at one of the most famous cathedrals in the world. I froze on the sidewalk, exhausted and overwhelmed, thinking, I am actually in Paris!
Bailey sniffed the air like she belonged there.
Bailey walking the streets like she owned them.
We still had one urgent mission before anything else. Find grass. Central Paris is not exactly overflowing with lawns, but after a bit of wandering we found a small patch. Bailey did her little spin and found her spot. With that taken care of, we headed toward our hotel in the 5th arrondissement, the Latin Quarter.
The Musée d’Orsay Detour
My original plan for landing day was ambitious. Check in, rest a bit, visit Palais Garnier, have dinner, then head to the Musée d’Orsay for their late night hours. Maybe even walk across Pont Neuf and see the Louvre lit up at night. Why not.
Instead, we checked into our hotel, set up the travel litter box for the cat, gave them both some food and water, and crashed into bed. So much for ambition.
If there is one rule I will preach forever, it is this: never plan anything on landing day.
Musée d’Orsay is a must see!
We still tried to salvage the evening. The Musée d’Orsay was open late, and I was determined to see it. We bundled Bailey into her bag and headed over, only for me to realize at the door that I had forgotten my wallet with her medical note. Without it, she couldn’t enter.
So Matt went in first while I waited with Bailey. It was cold, but not Montreal cold. I sat outside at a nearby restaurant with a drink, Bailey curled up asleep in her bag, her little face smushed into her blanket. People walked by and smiled at her. The city still carried its post Christmas charm, with decorations everywhere and a holiday feeling in the air. I watched the lights of Paris flicker on, and for the first time that day, I felt myself exhale.
The Church at Auvers by Van Gogh.
This wasn’t what I had planned but it was a very much needed break.
When it was my turn, I went straight to the Van Gogh paintings, the whole reason I had insisted we visit this museum. I stood in front of them and felt something in me click back into place. The travel stress was absolutely worth it.
Heartbreak at Versailles
The next morning, we had a decision to make. We had booked a half day tour at the Palace of Versailles, but we weren’t sure Bailey would be allowed in even with the medical note. The idea of taking her an hour out of Paris only to be turned away felt risky.
So we did the thing I had been dreading. We left her in the hotel room.
We set up a portable security camera that we brought from home so we could check on her from our phones. When we closed the door, she barked a little, confused, but we talked to her through the camera, telling her we would be back soon. She circled the bed, then curled up like a tiny croissant. She needed to catch up on some rest too. The cat really didn’t care either way.
The Palace of Versailles but i miss Bailey!
The Palace of Versailles was beautiful, of course. The Hall of Mirrors, the gardens, the gold everywhere. I really tried to be in the moment, but I moved through it like I had left something important behind. Because I did! My heart twinged every time I looked at the camera, watching Bailey in the hotel room. She was either sleeping peacefully or waiting by the door, and I was rushing through one of the most famous palaces in Europe.
Travel Tip: Getting to Versailles by public transport was easy. If you prefer a guide, go for it, but I recommend simply buying a ticket and exploring at your own pace. It helped us avoid the crowds and move more comfortably.
Le pain au chocolat était mon préféré.
As soon as the tour ended, we anxiously hurried back to Paris. When we opened the hotel door, she was ready and greeted us excitedly. I very dramatically hugged her and told her I was never leaving her again!
The three of us went for a nice walk, grabbed coffee, and let the day slow down.
We visited Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie. Both were quick, gentle stops. Bailey in her bag, her head poking out like a little tourist. People kept turning around to look at her. A pug in a bag is apparently a universal joy.
Every restaurant, every meal, Bailey got a little taste.
Dinner was at a French restaurant, a chance to finally taste real French food. Bailey tried beef tartare for the first time. Her eyes widened. She looked at me like she had discovered her purpose in life.
I felt like we were finding our rhythm.
A Lesson at the Louvre
The next morning, my body staged a protest. I woke up to heavy limbs and a soreness that made me rethink my entire itinerary. I had pushed too hard. My body was telling me to slow down.
A selfie Bailey took at the Musée de l’Orangerie.
We slowly made our way to the Musée de l’Orangerie and fed Bailey her breakfast while waiting for the museum to open. She ate happily while I stood there feeling the cold and stiffness in my legs. When we finally went inside, the quiet oval rooms wrapped around us. Monet’s famous Water Lilies filled the space with a soft, meditative calm. I laughed to myself, thinking how funny it was that Bailey was here experiencing this too. As we sat and admired the iconic paintings, I realized I did not want this trip to be a checklist. I wanted to be present.
But next up was the Louvre.
The walk to the Louvre was short, but it hurt. Every step felt heavier. By the time we reached the entrance, the line was long and I was struggling. A staff member noticed me and guided us to the front. I could have cried. Inside, I sat down with a coffee and thought, how am I going to do this? The Louvre is huge. It’s overwhelming even when you feel fine.
The three of us touring the Louvre all day.
Matt insisted on getting a wheelchair from customer service for me. I resisted for about thirty seconds, then gave in. It was the best decision we made in Paris. He pushed me through the museum all day, Bailey sitting on my lap like a pug princess. She made the whole experience lighter, and I could actually tour the Louvre while resting my body.
Travel tip: I recommend getting a skip‑the‑line ticket. No matter which entrance you choose, the Louvre will be busy. Decide in advance what you want to see most. Having a plan helps you avoid wandering aimlessly, getting tired too quickly, and accidentally missing something you were really looking forward to.
Picture this: I am rolling around the Louvre, touring the Napoleon Apartments, the Sculpture Courtyard, the Grande Galerie, and casually passing paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, and Caravaggio, all with Bailey on my lap. Her eyes darting in every direction, definitely enjoying the art too.
A Mona Lisa Moment
When we reached the Mona Lisa, the crowd was thick and I couldn’t see anything. Again, a staff member noticed me in the wheelchair and waved us forward. Suddenly, we were right at the front, face to face with the famous painting! People were so kind and I was very appreciative for that special moment. I was also so grateful to Matt for pushing me all day. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have been able to experience it the way we did.
Afterward, we ate at a nearby restaurant. The staff adored Bailey. She ate whatever I ate, as she always does. I had planned to walk around Montmartre afterward, maybe even catch the sunset at Sacré Coeur. Instead, we went back to the hotel. I had nothing left. I learned my lesson when it comes to planning future itineraries. One or two attractions per day was going to be it for me.
Eiffel Tower and Madame Suzette
We skipped Luxembourg Gardens. No guilt this time and it was winter anyway. We visited the Pantheon, Bailey in her bag wearing her little winter coat and beret. She stuck her head out and I caught her staring up at the ceiling. I swear she understood where she was.
Bailey in her bag at the Pantheon loving everything.
Nearby was the now popular Emily in Paris square. Since we are fans of the show, we wanted to see Gabriel’s restaurant, Emily’s apartment, and the courtyard. It felt surreal. Just a week earlier, we had been in bed binge watching the latest season until 3am. Now the three of us were standing right there. Not wanting to disturb the locals, we took a few pictures quickly and left. #Bailey in Paris.
Matt and Bailey in Paris just waiting for Gabriel to open the restaurant.
A non-negotiable was getting a picture of Bailey in front of the Eiffel Tower wearing her beret. It was cloudy and rainy but worth it. We skipped Place du Trocadéro with no regrets. That could wait for another trip. We were choosing what mattered and letting the rest go.
Eiffel tower family photo: Sarah (Left), Bailey (Middle), Matt (right)
On our last night in Paris, we realized we had forgotten to try French crepes. A crime! So at dinner, Matt suggested we order Crêpe Suzette for dessert. It’s a classic French crepe served with a warm sauce made from butter, sugar, orange zest, and orange liqueur, then flambéed at the table. When the server lit it on fire, Bailey’s eyes also lit up. I’m sure wondering why humans were setting their food on fire but still wanting to try a piece. Unfortunately, I couldn’t share this one with her, so I gave her a piece of fruit instead. Honestly, it wasn’t my favorite, and yes, I was complaining a little. I didn’t like the liqueur taste. Usually I prefer something with chocolate. Well that’s a good enough reason to go back to Paris. I need to try more crepes!
Of course we got a baguette and ate it just like that. Bailey did get a little piece too.
We packed up that night and prepared for the next day’s travel, Bailey curled up beside us, resting from her big day and I’m sure dreaming about all the French food she got to try. A full pug is a happy pug.
Merci à toi, Paris
The next morning, we flew from Paris to Rome and headed straight for the train station. We had chosen to take the train down to Reggio Calabria so the pets wouldn’t have to fly more than necessary. It was our next stop on the way to Sicily, and we had planned to spend New Year’s there before settling into Palermo. On paper, we had enough time, but in reality, things got tight real fast. We found ourselves running through the station, bags bouncing, tickets in hand, praying the train was still at the platform. I had already overdone it in Paris and my legs were not interested in running.
Paris had already taught me that travel never goes the way you plan, especially when you’re traveling with pets. But it also showed me a version of the city I never would have seen if everything had gone perfectly.
Bailey on my lap while we rolled through the Louvre.
I saw the city from a sidewalk where I had to stop because my legs refused to keep going. From the Pantheon where Bailey stared up at the domed ceiling like she understood everything. From a wheelchair in the Louvre with her on my lap. Traveling with our pug didn’t just change the logistics. It changed the story.
And now we were standing in Termini in Rome, breathless, with no time to even smell the espresso, because if that train pulled away without us… well, that would be a whole different story.
More to come.
